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The mandarin (Citrus reticulata blanco) tree’s origin is China and was introduced to Europe in the early 1800s and the USA about 40 years after that. In Europe the fruit evolved into the smaller-sized mandarin while in the USA it remained similar in shape and size to the original Chinese mandarin but was later renamed tangerine. Mandarin oil (the European version) is produced via cold pressed expression, and the primary countries that produce mandarin oil include Italy (Calabria & Sicily), Brazil and Spain. There are three types of mandarin oils that are produced; green, red and yellow mandarin. While they all come from the same fruit, they are extracted at different stages in the fruit’s maturity (green is the first stage, yellow the second, and red the third). The aroma varies between the three types of mandarins with green being the most tart, yellow in the middle in terms of its sweet and floral aspects, and red being the sweetest and most floral. For use in perfumery, yellow is the most widely used in the industry (though red and green mandarins can produce interesting results in perfumery as well). When compared to sweet orange oil, the mandarin oils are less sweet and more floral. At Wit & West, we like the mandarin in all three of its forms and use each one depending on the effect we are going for in the fragrance. In Fleur du Riad, the focus is to bring forward the green and floral nuances of neroli, so we use green mandarin.

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Yuzu (Citrus junos) is a citrus fruit that is considered to be a hybrid between Ichang papeda and Satsuma mandarin. It originated in China and was later introduced to Korea and Japan during the Tang Dynasty, and it is still widely cultivated in Japan and Korea today. This unique citrus can grow in cooler climates, though it can take between 3 and 7 years (sometimes longer) to produce fruit. In addition to its use in perfumery, it is also grown for culinary purposes including tea, sauces (ponzu), as well as garnishes for drinks and desserts. But unlike other citrus fruits, it is not typically eaten by itself. The aroma of yuzu is similar to grapefruit but it is sweeter and more floral, a bit like yellow mandarin with some aspects of bergamot as well. Yuzu is one of the longer lasting citrus oils, making it a versatile and unique top note (though more expensive than the similar yellow mandarin). Yuzu is often paired with jasmine and other white florals such as orange blossom.

You can find yuzu in the following Wit & West fragrances:

Streetcar Magnolia Eau de Cologne

Yuzu Pop Eau de Cologne